Cheetahs, and ostrich, and zebra, Oh my!

When most think of the continent of Africa, surely images of wild animals roaming the countryside come to mind. The safari is a treasured adventure drawing tourists from around the world to the continent. Having been on two of them in my travels to Africa - one outside of Johannesburg, South Africa, and another on the border of Uganda and DR Congo - I am well aware of the appeal. I had been spending most of my week in Djibouti poolside or inside partly because the country of less than 1 million did not offer much for exploration, and mostly because temperatures were well into the 100s. When the receptionist at my hotel informed me there was a small safari/park an hour outside of the city, I was more than ready to venture out into the wild albeit the scorching temps. The road out to the park from Djibouti city was less traveled and full of wide open spaces. I almost expected a tumbleweed to whisp across the road while old country western music faintly played in the background of this ghost country. The only scenery along the way was sadly trash piled in the street and the occasional herd of cows. When we got to the game park we were greeted by an upbeat French gentlemen who gave us a quick orientation and sent us on our way. The first stop was the cheetahs. The cheetahs, for good reason, were hanging out behind a fence. Two of them were large and majestic and paced back and forth around a small shed which I assumed was home to their feeding trough. I snapped some photos but spent only a few minutes, as I was ready to see the animals who were fence-free. About the time we were leaving the cheetahs, a small baby antelope roaming free began to approach. I bent down and in my best baby talk/antelope wooing voice asked the adorable little fury to come to me and let me pet it. Sure enough, I was able to pet it's soft fur and was delighted by it's willingness to interact. As we went on our way, our new furry friend followed close behind. Next on the scene were the East African black mud turtles. It was feeding time for the group and the park attendant had placed 3 large piles of greens and veggies on trays on the dirt for all to share. Watching the turtles eat was like a live version of a teenage mutant ninja turtles huddle up. They were all gathered around the tray in circles peacefully enjoying their meal. As the food began to disappear, tensions rose, and the turtles started pushing one another out of the circle with their large shells in an effort to have exclusive access to the grub. A few of the shelled creatures decided to leave their tray in search for more food on one of the other trays and it was quite entertaining to watch them try to force their way into the circle of feeders. Some were successful with their slow and steady approach and were able to have a hearty lunch. On down the dirt road we came upon an East African ostrich often called the Masai ostrich. It stood about 6 feet 3 inches tall with a long neck, pink beak, and a plethora of beautiful fluffy feathers making up it's flightless wings and coat. I petted it's wings a couple of times and it cocked it's beak my way. As we walked a little further along, the ostrich followed closely behind me. At first I was pleased by it's apparent affection for me, but then I began to get a bit annoyed and just a tiny bit scared as I do not claim to be an ostrich expert and therefore do not understand it's capabilities good or bad. I know I'm all for an ostrich burger, and was not completely certain that a Katy burger was out of the question for this gargantuan bird. I'm sure he sensed my fear and then pecked at me a couple of times. I shouted for the guide to get the ostrich away from me and he grabbed the bird and pushed it in another direction. The last and certainly not least wild animal we saw grazing in it's natural habitat was the zebra. I love their stripes and the wild nature of these African horses and could not wait to touch and snap photos with it. Luckily the zebra we came upon was thoroughly engaged in it's lunch of hay that was hanging from a tree. Otherwise, I'm not so sure I could have touched it or taken photos with it. While petting his striped body, he did express discontent and lifted his rear leg in a kicking motion. I knew my time was up. All in all, the Djibouti safari/park experience was a good starter as the first of I hope several safaris on my trip.

Freedom Fighters

It was September 11, 2010 - A day in America for somber remembrance of lives that were lost as a result of terrorism against humanity. I started the day in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia when my friend Andualem Arage picked me up in a cab to take me to the notorious Kaliti prison where he spent 18 months 5 years ago. It was New Years Day, 2003 in Ethiopia according to the Ethiopian calendar and Andualem wanted to support his party leader Birtukan Mideksa who is currently serving a life sentence in Kaliti. Andualem is the Secretary General of the UDJ (Unity for Democracy and Justice)and Birtukan Mideksa is the party leader and consequently the first African woman in history to lead a major opposition party in Africa. We arrived at Kiliti and stepped out of the cab at the gas station across the street from the entrance of the prison. I wanted to snap some photos and Andualem suggested we snap them from afar so that suspicions were kept at bay. This is the world Andualem and his party leaders live in. One where they are constantly looking over their shoulder in fear they are being followed or watched and constantly under government harassment. Most of the people of Ethiopia feel they have no true freedom under the oppressive rule of Prime Minister, Meles Zenawi, and the few who have the courage to fight for real democracy pay the price with their lives. A few minutes after our arrival Birtukan's mother, Almaz Gebregziabher and her 5 year old daughter Halley arrived by cab dressed up in the finest traditional Ethiopian dress to commemorate the New Year. Halley had a small drum with her so that she could play her mother a song. I greeted both of them with the customary three kisses on the cheek, introduced myself, and handed Almaz a small bottle of perfume to pass along to Birtukan, as only her immediate family is aloud to visit her despite the rights of the prisoner according to the Ethiopian constitution -- business as usual. We all walked over to a row of benches right outside the prison gate where several soldiers stood watch. We were joined by a small group of people waiting to visit their loved ones and awaiting their turn to be called by the guard to enter. As I sat in support, Andualem told me his stories of when he was imprisoned at Kaliti -- the horrible conditions, and his experience that drove him further into his desire to fight peacefully in hopes he would see the day of democracy in his beloved country. Immediately following the 2005 elections, Birtukan, Andualem, and 21 other members of their party were thrown into prison accused of trying to overthrow government order and were all sentenced to life in prison. The party believed along with most Ethiopians that the election results had been rigged. After 18 months of negotiations and pressure from the international community, the prisoners were released. Birtukan was delivering a speech in 2007 in Sweden about the unconstitutional way in which their release was handled. As a prominent and experienced judge, she knows the law well, and is well qualified to deliver such an opinion. Unfortunately, the hammer of injustice slammed down hard on her again and as a result of her comments, her life sentence was reinstated and she was thrown back into prison. Her party is committed to fighting for democracy on behalf of Ethiopia through peaceful struggle. In the words of Andualem Arage, "So long as we are not free, we have to fight. We have to have the courage not to kill, not to hate our brothers, but to fight for our rights. We need to organize the people and be committed to the point of death. They cannot kill everyone. When the people have the courage to fight for their freedom and are committed even to the point of death, that is when the democratic system here can start."

Rainbow to Ethiopia

This video was shot two years ago during my visit to Ethiopia. Today in the village of Derma Musa there is a new school, 2 new soccer fields, a well, a garden, a guesthouse for volunteers, and an auditorium being built. There is still much more work to be done but I love seeing a vision come to fruition!

A day in the slums

I have been somewhat involved with the work of RHCF, my friend Winni's NGO for the past 3 years. RHCF includes food, education, and health aid to roughly 150 impoverished children who live in the slums of Addis Ababa. I met some of these children two years ago in a classroom setting. This time, I was able to go to their homes to see there living conditions in hopes that I could bring some encouragement (and gifts) on their New Year's eve. Betty and I met with the administrator of the organization, Fasika, at the entrance to the village/slum to begin our visiting journey. The homes are made of sheet metal and each are about 100 square feet in size, lined up one next to one another. There is a rock pathway that takes you downhill through the village that offers the only outdoor space to the inhabitants. Our first stop was at the base of the village. As we climbed down the path, we were greeted by people sitting in their doorways or standing outside curiously watching our decent. In my travels to AFRICA I have always had the chance to see real poverty, but it never ceases to shock me. We walked into darkness in the first shack. Inside, the flame that heated a burner warming a pot of tea above, was the only source of light and warmth. An elderly man greeted us with a large toothless smile and motioned for us to sit on the makeshift couch (old ratty cushions on the ground and against the wall). We then introduced ourselves to each member of the family. Buton, who is the only current child sponsored by RHCF, 4 years old, her sister, Beza, 8 years old, their cousin Aster, 17 who is currently playing the mother role and their grandfather. Beza and Butons parents are passed away from AIDS and the grief was apparent by little Buton's somber face. I tried some smiles, tricks, tickles, and a Snickers bar to get a smile from her to no avail. As we spoke together partly in Amharic (Betty translating my English) we talked about their interests and hopes. I learned Beza did not currently have a sponsor so I decided that I would take that small monetary responsibility in hopes that it would make a lasting positive difference in her future. After 30 minutes or so, we exchanged hugs and kisses, took photos, and left to our next home. The next home was Salams'. She is 10 years old, has aspirations to be a doctor someday, and lives with her grandmother and sick uncle as her parents have passed away from AIDS. This was another heartwrenching visit as I learned her uncle has been sick and bedridden for 18 months with week lungs. He has had limited access to good food and nutrition and medicine, and the little he has received has been as a result of the village members pitching in small amounts. In America, with his condition, he might likely be back to health after a few weeks of rest and antibiotics. Here in Ethiopia his condition meant months of suffering, bed rest, and monetary loss for his family as he is normally the primary breadwinner. We visited three more families all that had been touched by AIDS through their current condition or through the loss of a close relative. The day in the slums gravely reminded me of the vast need of this place and made me so thankful once again that I somehow won the genetic lottery by being born in America. I never want to forget these people and their plight as they serve as a reminder to stay committed to giving back in any small way as I have been blessed with so much.

A day in Ethiopia

I woke up in GetNet Guesthouse to the sound of roosters crowing and the bright sun shining through a small window onto my bed. One day before I arrived via Ethiopian Airlines from Cairo to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, the capital of the country. I woke up refreshed from a long night of sleep and stoked to be back in a familiar and cherished country of mine. I rolled out of bed, threw on my kicks and running gear, and headed out into the village for a morning jog. I have been slacking in my runs and I figured there is no better place to prepare my lungs for a Kiliminjaro climb than the altitudes of Ethiopia that have produced many world class distance runners to boot. As I jogged along the red mud roads, I was greeted with bright smiles and "Hahlos". About halfway through the run, some kids caught my attention and I stopped for a break. We each introduced ourselves and exchanged handshakes and high fives. The kids giggled with delight as I spoke some broken Amharic (the official language of Ethiopia) and they tested out their broken English on me. One boy had a contraption that made the sound of a firecracker when he snapped it against a brick wall nearby, and he was tickled pink to watch me laugh as he popped it again for a reaction. Shortly after our exchange some young men walked up and inquired about my visit to their country. To their appreciation, I told them that I had been to their county two years prior and was glad to be back to visit a place that I loved. They assured me that if I needed any help at all, I could find them around the village and they would be more than happy to assist me as they love America. We all said our goodbyes and I was back on my run. When I got back to the hotel my appetite was worked up and I was more than ready to indulge in some traditional Ethiopian food so I grabbed my bag and headed for the main road five blocks away. I walked into a small restaurant with four tables inside, two outside, a few women working behind the counter, and an Obama calendar on the wall. As I was eating my meal in peace, a couple of young boys walked in the cafe and sat down at the table next to me. One of them eagerly asked, "Where are you from? Do you speak English?". I replied, "I am from America". A huge grin landed across his face and he enthusiastically replied, "I love American and Snoop Dog! Please, come visit my shop down the road. I have many traditional dresses and perhaps I can give you a gift!" His instant generosity warmed my heart and reminded me of the Africa I know. We spoke a few more minutes and I realized I needed to get back to my hotel as I was expecting someone to pick me up. That someone was Jambo, the nephew of my dear Ethiopian friend from Los Angeles, Winni. Jambo was planning to pick me up to be my host during my stay. I was pleased to meet a smiling face and a family member of the Shiferaws, many of whom I have met in previous years and have had the chance of knowing and loving. Jambo was with the family chaffeur Mashrusha who I knew from my previous visit and we exchanged a warm hug and were then on our way to Gourmet Cafe, the Shiferaw's restaurant in Addis. When we arrived at the cafe, I was greeted by none other than Fikru, Winni's brother who I also knew from LA. I sat down at the round table outside, ordered a Macchiato (for which the Italians and Ethiopians are famous), and began to catch up with Fikru. The cafe is a post for all types of people -- Africans and Westerners, businessesmen and women and humanitarians. Travlers and natives. The decor is charming and the food is top notch. As I looked around the cafe, I was energized by the diverse exchanges taking place all around me. I sighed with satisfaction. Fikru and I discussed my desire to see the National Museum and the University of Addis museum and he agreed to accompany me. So Mushrasha, Jambo, Fikru, and I went on our way to take in some Ethiopian history. The national museum is small and a bit run down but it was a great welcome to the country. The exhibits included the history of culture, politics, and science. What I found most interesting was the display of fossils. The Homo Sapien Idaltu was discovered in 1997 and is 160,000 year old. The discovery of the fossil skull, according to scientists, made huge breakthroughs in the understanding of the history of mankind. The brain of this specimen was more advanced than previous specimens and close to the development of the modern homo sapien. This along with another display took the visitor along the timeline of the archeological findings of significant ancient human fossils most of which were discovered in Ethiopia and dating back up to 10 million years. Food for thought. I made my way through the museum's displays, purchased a book on Ethiopian philosophy, and we headed on our way to the University of Addis Museum. This museum is in the heart of the campus and is the former home of King Haile Selassie, the last reigning monarch of Ethiopia. This museum focuses largely on cultural customs, religions and art. There are 83 tribes and languages so with that comes quite a diversity in customs and religious practices. At the end of the brain dump, we ended up in the former King and Queen's bedroom which were consequently separate. The Queen's room was approximately 500 square feet with pink, white and gold walls, and white carpet with pink flowers. On display were several of her ornate costumes and dresses. The King's bedroom was much smaller at about 250 square feet. On display was his bed, with a lion wearing a crown on the headboard, his photo on the wall, and the famous painting of Jesus praying at the garden of Gethsemene. After a long afternoon of information gathering we were all ready for a meal and headed back to Gourmet Corner Cafe for some dinner. This time walking into the restaurant, I was greeted by Bzork, Winni's sister and we exhanged 3 kisses on the cheek as is custom. We talked for some time and then Betty walked in. Betty is a young woman who previously worked with RHCF, the organization I came with before. Betty used to teach the kids every Saturday and was still involved in a small way. I was happy to hear that she would be able to accompany to see the kids of RHCF during my stay. Betty like alot of Ethiopians has beautiful bone structure and facial features, clear skin, and looks at least 10 years younger than her age. It was good to hear about Betty's life and to see yet another familiar face. The day had whipped by and evening fell upon us. We were all ready to sleep so we went on the way to the place I stayed prior in the Shiferaw family home in Debra Zeit, a town about 45 minutes north of Addis. The home is beautiful and peaceful. When you enter the gates that open up in front of the dirt road, you are greeted with a beautiful flower garden and several welcoming barking dogs. The living room and dining room is decorated with fine art, china, and gorgeous furniture, a true blessing to be staying here on my visit. That night and all nights the maids serve us Ethiopian tea, injera (the native bread) and shuro (sauce) to cap off the day. After a full stomach and happy heart I made my way to the guest bedroom for a long and restful night of sleep.

Alexandria the great

Traffic is always unpredictable in Cairo given the 25-30 million people who inhabit it and so I arrived at the train station literally 20 seconds too late. After running into the station from the road, I watched as my Alexandria bound train headed off into the distance. After talking with the train customer service in broken English and realizing the next train would not get me to my destination until evening, I decided to hire a driver and make the trip by car. The drive North took longer than hoped and I arrived in Alexandria just after 2pm and headed straight to the Library. At the entrance, the security guard informed me that the library closed at 2pm during Ramadan and would not open back up until 10am the next morning - just my luck today. Feeling strike two, I headed a few blocks straight for the beach, in this case, the Mediterranean Sea for some solace. Looking out onto the coast of the sea took me back to California in my mind. I took in some fresh air and strolled along the coastline taking in the scenery. Feeling zen once again, I hailed a taxi and went on a mini tour of the town. Along the way, I took photos and spoke in the few Arabic words and phrases I knew, and he spoke to me like Arabic was my native tongue - ah, frustration. The tour ended at the Four Seasons and I could not have been happier to meet an American who was the manager at the spa. Anne, originally from New Hampshire, had been living in Alexandria for the past year and shared with me her observations and experiences as an expat in Egypt. When she first arrived, she felt like an alien and had a judgmental eye towards the culture and religion and in particular, the woman's role. But after observing and living among the people she now has a new found respect and appreciation for Egyptian ways and sees that the men regard their women as sacred creatures who they cannot live without...in her opinion. It has been interesting to see the dominance of men in the public here in Egypt. It was rare for me to see a woman working in the storefront or at a restaurant or in any other day job for that matter. Most women stay at home with the children and allow the men to take care of monetary responsibilities. When questioning the Egyptian woman about the head to toe dressing, they seemed totally comfortable with the custom and eager to please their men who encourage the dress in an effort keep other men from looking at or desiring their women. Culturally ingrained Egyptian men seem to have a self-proclaimed jealous and possessive nature but at the same time, in accordance to the Muslim religion, a desire to be the best husband they can be in nurture and care of their wives; A different kind of respect for women than the American way. After the tour I headed one of the cafe's there at the hotel, Fresca for a relaxing dinner overlooking the peaceful Mediterranean. I ordered a panini and once again indulged myself with Turkish coffee while overlooking the sunset through the palm trees.