The Pyramids: Ancient Wonder, Archeological Mystery

The wisest of scholars and most experienced of archeologists continue to remain baffled by the Ancient Egyptian pyramids. From the first, built in 2750 B.C. to the largest, built in 2560 B.C. the precision and craftmanship involved in constructing these ancient wonders was beyond even the technological advances we have at our fingertips today. When considering the largest pyramid Khufu, with 2.5 million limestone blocks weighing an average of 2 tons and rising 42 stories high, the construction just does not seem to work out logistically or practically. Many theories exist including they were built by extra terrestrials, but regardless they stand as a true work of art and man's innate desire to create and in this case, create something grand. The pyramids were built in the efforts of the Pharoahs to assist in their immortality and as a passageway to the gods they believed they would rule and reign with in the heavens.

I chose to see these mystic structures by camel course so I hired my guide, Ahmed and he chose his camel Moses to lead us around the pyramids. As we sauntered around each structure, I was completely awestruck by their magnitude. Trying to picture 5,000 years ago, men hoisting blocks weighing two tons was truly a stretch of my imagination. It is no wonder that these are the last standing of The Seven Ancient Wonders of the World. There is a proverb that says "Man fears time, but time fears the pyramids". In primitive times, mankind was able to design and build these masterpieces that have stood the test of time. Incredible. Being at the site of the pyramids and looking upon them was to look upon greatness and mystery.

Golfing on political turf

While in Sharm-el-Sheik, Egypt on the Sinai Peninsula, I went to visit and research the the only golf course in Sharm to do some research for a travel article. Like everyday that I've been in Egypt, this day was notably hot and so it was literally a breath of fresh air to walk into the corridor of the golf course and conference center that was exquisitely decorated and adorned with gorgeous floral arrangements and magnificent works of art. I walked into the clubhouse and was enthusiastically greeted by Ahmed, a staff member of the course. Ahmed shared with me the ins and outs of the Jolie Ville golfing experience and then set me up with one of the caddies to be my tour guide around the course itself. I got into the drivers seat of the golf cart and put the pedal to the metal. The course was virtually empty given the weather and so it was our playground for the hour. Palm trees, 9 lakes, and loads of flowers clothed the grounds and surrounding all around were lovely white villas side by side acting as a gate of sorts. The villas themselves each had pools and were completely empty with not a soul in sight. Apparently they were not for rent or sale and only for President Hosni Mubarak's guests when they came to stay. He holds most of his meetings and talks at the course and conference center, and to allow an "outsider" to occupy the villas in such close proximity to the President and other world leaders on a regular basis would be too much of a security threat. So they remain primarily a decorative touch for the course. When I was finished with my joy ride, photos, and interviews, I went to the clubhouse for a couple of drinks and then a tour of the conference center, press rooms and offices of the President. I find it to be an interesting both peacekeeping and statement making move for the President to hosts his international guests in Sharm-el-Sheik, which lies technically in Asia and in the Sinai Peninsula. Mubarak has been president of Egypt for 28 years and assumed the role after his predecessor Anwar Sadat was assassinated by the Egyptian Islamic Jihad after signing the Israel-Egypt peace treaty in 1979 making Egypt the first Arab nation to recognize Israel. As a result of his signing, the Arab League suspended Egypt from it's alliance for 10 years. The signing of the treaty by Israeli prime minister, Menachem Begin and Sadat led to the two of them sharing the Nobel Peace Prize of 1978, but Sadat lost the favor of the Arab world, his own country, and ultimately his life. Sinai had been the source of geopolitical factions for decades and Israel invaded and occupied the region both in 1952 and 1967. In 1973 Egypt regained control, but Egyptians and the Arab world alike would remain bitter and unforgiving. With the rise of Asia as an economic and political world force and in remembrance of the conflicts and present victory of Egypt on Sinai soil, Jolie Ville in Sharm-el-Sheik, Sinai peninsula, ASIA is both beautiful and peaceful in it's ambiance and political intent. I give it five stars for a golf outing in Egypt!

Mt. Sinai

I don't think words can do this experience justice but I'll give it my best shot.

Mt. Sinai in St. Catherine City has been a pilgrimage for Christians all over the world for years as it is historical sight of the Biblical story of Moses receiving the 10 commandments of God in Exodus Chapter 20. The city itself is not easy to reach as it is about a 3 1/2 hour drive from the nearest town, Sharm-el-Sheik and there are roughly 10 police security checkpoints along the way. Though once you arrive, you reach a restful Oasis as this little town at the foot of the mountain is home to just a few hotels and St. Catherine Monastery, the prayer and worship house of 22 Greecian monks and the apparent sight of the burning bush.

At 1:30 in the morning is when my journey up the mountain began. After arriving at the base, I quickly found a guide, Jarma, a 22 year old Egyptian and he found me a camel that would be my mode of transportation for two thirds of the trek to the top. My camel's name was Samson, and he lived up to his namesake as he was a strong and consequently competitive camel. He insisted on leading the pack and at times when another camel would try and take the lead, he would speed up to a jaunt to keep his lead position. I thoroughly appreciated these traits in him as it was fun for me to be blazing the trail with him. Jarma was a good guide walking alongside us taking photos and offering up tea and water. About 2 hours later we reached the of the stairway where we parted ways with Samson and started a workout that put the stairmaster to shame. There were 750 steps of rocks that were steep as the streets of San Fran. After the first 100 steps we stopped for a break and laid out on the rocks. When I looked up into the sky, my breath was taken away. I have never seen so many stars and so many so bright in all my life. Surrounded by the mountains sheltered from the wind, the silence was overwhelming. Tears welled up as my eyes and ears were overtaken by the beauty of these moments. Ten minutes later we were back on our way, but stopped each break to gaze at the stars and listen to the sound of silence. We arrived at the top of the mountain another hour and a half later and met others who had arrived before and then waited for still others to arrive in preparation to watch the sunrise. The crowd was made up of people from around the world -- Russians, Italians, Chinese, Kenyans, South Americans, and I'm sure a number of other nationalities in the group of 200 give or take. We were spread out around the top of the mountain, some surrounding the Christian chapel with the cross on top and some surrounding the Islamic Mosque. We sat in anticipation for over an hour, cameras ready. Finally the sun peaked out from behind a slew of dark clouds across the horizon. The red light burned through the darkness and we watched it slowly creep up into the clear. When the rays reached the clear sky and beamed across the mountainside, it was almost as if you could hear the angels singing. It was truly glorious. Now that daylight had broken, I walked around from edge to edge to bask in the views and take lots of photos. After another hour or so, I could tell Jarma was more then ready to start the trip back down the mountain so we took off on the 2 hour trek back down.

Cleopatra spa treatment and Red Sea dinner

I arrived in Sharm-el-Sheik on the Red Sea coast after a 7 hour overnight bus ride from Cairo. "Sharm" as it is affectionately called by locals, is a beach retreat for mostly Italians and Russians and there is a season for each. It is now Italian tourist season so I was greated everywhere with "Ciao" and "Ciao Bella". I arrived at my hotel, took a quick nap, and then went to have The Cleopatra spa treatment. My Egyptian masseaur, Beso, was very helpful in explaining each treatment in detail available at his spa. We then began the "Cleopatra Spa Treatment" that started with an Egyptian massage. The technique incorparates alot of detailed finger work around the muscle. It felt like my back was dough being kneeded and that this recipe called for LOTS of oil. The aroma of my new favorite Egyptian essence Lotus was intoxicating. Next on the line-up, the Turkish bath. The Turkish bath is the Turkish variant on a sauna distinguished by a focus on water as opposed to steam. Don't get me wrong, this one had plenty of steam to go along with the buckets of water being poured over me throughout the session. The room itself had marble walls with one big marble table in the center in which I was laid out on. Beso started the treatments by scrubbing shredded coconut onto my entire body. In between scrubs, he would wash me down with coconut milk. There were about 5 scrub/wash combinations followed by the "mummy wrap" in which my body was wrapped up like a mummy with towels and I laid deadpan in the steam for about 20 minutes. Next up, a mountain of foam. Beso used a towel to twirl up huge mounds of foam filled with special soaps and then threw the mound on my body until the only thing that remained foam free was my face. More hot water for wash and more soaking in the steam. And if that wasn't enough to make me walk on clouds, Another coconut and oil massage to finish me off! Ahhhhhh. At the end of it all Beso said, "And now your are a Queen!"

Naturally after all that pampering, I was ready for a cat nap and a Red Sea dinner. So I headed out to Old Market Sharm for what my Lonely Planet AFRICA book called the best seafood dinner on the coast, Sinai Star. On the menu and in my order for the night was a typical Egyptian meal. For starters, the Egyptian bread that is alot like a Greek pita served with a sauce made from an endemic plant called Simsen and is absolutely delish. The salad is always a cucumber, tomato, and shredded lettuce salad, no dressing. For the main course, I was adventurous and ordered the Mugil Fish of the Red Sea. In AFRICA, when you order fish, you order the whole fish. They bring out the entire fish in its form baked and if you are lucky, they remove the eyeballs. I was lucky this time, but when my main course was set in front of me, I couldn't help but think of my pet beta, Gavin, and feel a tinge of remorse for eating one of his distant relatives of the oceans. It's so much easier to eat animals in their food form. So, I used my fork to make the fish my food again in my mind and fully enjoyed the meal!

Praying in Cairo behind the green curtain

Last night, right before prayer time, we made our way to Islamic Cairo downtown, strewn with ancient and beautifully ornate mosques. It was another scorcher so I had on a long but sleeveless sundress. Shame shame. As we walked near the entrance of one of the mosques, a man named Mohammed (ironically) with a large presence and booming voice approached us and warned us against entry into the mosque as it was only for fully covered Muslim woman who wanted to pray to God. I let him know matter-of-factly that I prayed to God as well and am Christian, but would like to join in the the prayer time. He laughed and led us on our way to find a long scarf to cover ourselves so that we would be worthy of entry. We arrived at the entry of The Mosque Madrasa of Sultan Al-Muiayyaa built in 1415 AD and were instructed to take off our shoes and were asked if we were fully clean. I assured Mohammed I was freshly showered. He led us into the Mosque, past the men's quarters to our left, into a vast open gazebo with a "showertower" in the middle for those not so freshly showered folk, and then pointed me in the direction of a green curtain, the prayer area. I walked in, and there before me were roughly 200 Egyptian Muslim women lined up in about 20 rows side by side. I made my way to the 3rd row next to two small girls. The Imam (Muslim priest) was talking into a loudspeaker but was not visible. His chanting and reading of sections of the Quran was deep and monotone and in between phrases there were long pauses when we would sometimes kneel, sometimes, stand, sometimes bend down totally prostrate, and sometimes bend over...everyone in unison. I must say it was a good flexibility workout. We did the progression of kneeling, bending, standing, etc. in between the readings for about 20 minutes. At one point in the middle of the session, an elderly woman tapped me on the shoulder with a look of chastisement and motioned to the area just above my wrist where I was showing skin. I quickly covered up at her and smiled back at her. Her look softened and she motioned me towards her. She then took a pin out and readjusted my headdress around my head covering my chin and put a pin in it to hold it. The ladies around her giggled and smiled. I nodded my head and gave her a look of gratitude and turned back around to finish out. When we left from behind the green curtain to leave the mosque I waved goodbye to my prayer group, put on my shoes and went on my way.

Camels, shisha, Sahara, and more perfume!

It was another standard Egyptian day in my world. We started the day with a leisurely stroll down King Faisal road, the road where our hotel is located and now the road that is lined with our new Egyptian friends who recognize us as the foreigners who show their arms and hair. I have been making an effort each day to be modest with long skirts but today a camel was on the agenda, so I threw on pants for the first time since arriving in AFRICA. The looks I got made me feel like a 5 cent call girl. SO, I decide I would cover my head instead. I mosied on into a clothing store where 5 ladies, fully robed were working. As Martha and I perused through the different colors and fabrics of scarves available, the ladies taught us how to wrap them around our head in the traditional manner. I, of course, chose a zebra print scarf to add to my zebra clothing collection and walked out of the store feeling like a new woman with my new headdress. I think my attempt to fly under the radar backlashed, though, as the response became giggles instead of gawks. I realized my displaying my arms and wearing pants WITH head covered was probably the equivalent of a nun in a habit and leather biker pants.

The Papyrus museum had been recommended by several of the locals and Martha and I made our way there today. We were greeted at the entrance by a young, attractive, charismatic man who immediately started making ancient Papyrus paper with the Papyrus plant while telling us the story of the most famous Papyrus painting, "The Last Judgement". This story was told thousands of years ago about what would happen on judgement day and since I find it so fascinating, I will tell you the story here exactly as it is written on the museum's one-sheeter:

The Ancient Egyptian believed that there is another life after death. So they believed that everybody must be judged. To decide the destination of each person and "What you sow is what you reap" in the painting you see the dead person kneels down in front of 14 judges offering some sacrifices saying I didn't kill, I didn't pollute the Nile River. And he asks them to help him in the trial scene. After that, they will send him to the god of mummification and death named "Anobis". Anobis will lead him to the balance of justice to weigh his heart the center of intention against the feather, the symbol of truth and justice. If the heart is heavy that means the heart is full of crimes and offences. So the animal "AM AM" will devour his heart. So no life anymore for him. But if the heart is light means a pure heart, so the god of writing and wisdom, "Tut" will transmit the result to "Horus", the protection god and his wife "isis" the goddess of love and beauty and his sister, "Neftis" the goddess of magic. THE END

After the story we spent time looking at all the beautiful art. Mohammed, our host just married one month made sure we were aware he was looking for another wife. How's that for a pickup line ladies? You could be the lucky one of four!

When we returned back to our King Faisal road we stopped to say "hello" to Naura and Mohammed #2 of the day from our beloved "Arabian Nights" perfume shop saw us there and invited us back to the shop for some tea and conversation. Somehow, an intended 20 minute pitstop turned into 3 hours complete with breakfast (dinner), bartering, new friends, more perfume, lots of business talk, and finally, shisha. Shisha is apparantely another universal name for what I call Hookah, or flavored tobacco smoked from an ornate pipe. Good times had by all.

The last, final, and best part of the day began when Ayman walked into Arabian nights and invited us to watch the famous Pyramids Sound and Light show from his families' rooftop at the base of the pyramids. We gladly accepted the invitation and arrived at his 1000 year Bedouin home at the foot of the pyramids. After yet another round of Egyptian tea, we headed out into the streets and alley ways to hunt down a camel for our night ride into the Sahara. Walking through the town I felt I had flashed back in time a couple thousand years. Families were sitting outside their doorways on the dirt in their traditional dress, fully robed amid the heat. The goats, sheep, camels, horses, and chickens filled the space casually with them as well. We finally made our way into a small mall of sorts and found our camels laying in a row against a fence. Ayman and I mounted one and Omar and Martha another. Ayman quickly named our camel King Khufu, one of the ancient Kings of Egypt. Khufu was a good sport along the way galloping from time to time to spice things up a bit. When we approached the foot of the desert mountain and began making our way up, I was in absolute awe. The desert was only lit by the beauty of the moon and a few distant fires here and there. The air was pristine and the wind blew the sand around in a whimsical haze. My Eastern facing view was the pyramids and other camel riders and heards of horses running free and bare back escorting their riders into the night. When we reached the top of the mountain, we were greeted by a Bedouin man at a makeshift camp. Several young Egyptian men sat around drinking tea and sitting by a campfire. We joined them in their retreat and took in the views of the pyramids, the flowing desert and the exotic night sky. A night to remember indeed.

Sleeping by day, dancing on the Nile by night!

Today jetlag got the best of me and my waking hours and I remained in a deep sleep until 4:30ish Egyptian time. I am not a fan of sleeping the day away in a new place where there is SO much to be experienced, but I'm sure the sleep served me well because I woke up refreshed, revived, and ready to conquer once again! But, alas, my roomie had left for Old Town Cairo with the key to the bag where my mula was. Doh! By the way, the Egyptian currency is pounds and the exchange rate is 5 pounds to 1 dollar. Things are relatively inexpensive here. For example, a nice meal might cost you 15 pounds/3 dollars, a 2-3 star hotel may run you 45-60 pounds/$15-20, and a Pharaonic massage at the Four Seasons will run you $150. SO, I took the time while I was stuck in my hotel room with a view of the Pyramids to read my Bible and write in my journal. I've made it my goal to write in my journal every day. Today I found myself with a case of writer's cramp at the end of my journaling, as I had so much to spill from my mind and heart after one day. I'm afraid I'll have several journals and carpal tunnel at the end of this!

Once Martha returned, and after grabbing a snack from KFC (yes, The Colonel has made his way all the way to Egypt with his secret recipe), we were on our way with our new guide/translator/friend, Ram, to take a dinner cruise down the Nile. I was hoping for a canoe-like contraption with exotic men in white dresses fanning us with Palm leaves and feeding us grapes while rowing us along. Instead, the boat was more like a Carnival cruise ship complete with a ginormous dinner spread, strobe lights, and Arabic karaoke in which I sadly could not competently participate in. :( The dancing at the end of the night, however, I could master with flying colors. At the end of the show which included belly dancers, Egyptian fighting dancers, and a twirling midget, the crowd was invited in on the action. After a few moves here and there, I was chosen (by the wrapping of a white belt around my waste by the Egyptian fighter) to dance in the middle with one of the belly dancers....and if I might say so myself, I tore the Arabic dance floor up! Dancing is a universal language and is something that has connected people of all cultures throughout all time and it is a language I love to speak! I hope to speak lots more of it while here, but for now, "Salam Alashek" (goodbye).

inEgypt!

After almost 24 hours of travel time including two planes, a couple of airport terminals, and a taxi, I arrived in one piece to Egypt today! I was lucky enough to have an entire row of 3 seats to myself on the 9 and a half hour flight to Rome. I spent those hours sprawled out with pillow and blanket sleeping like a baby for most of the flight. Once I arrived at the airport in Rome, I was slapped with the realization I was on the other side of the world. People of all different colors, shapes, sizes, and languages swarmed around me as I made my way to my gate. After hours of waiting and taking in the scenery, I jumped in line and struck up a conversation with the girl in front of me, Martha -- a student from Mexico studying industrial design in Italy and making her way to Egypt for 8 days alone. Within minutes we decided we would team up and take on the country together! On the 5 hour hour flight over to Cairo, I continued in my quest to collect new friends, and heard the backstory and future ambitions of 16 year old Omar sitting next to me. Omar is on his way to becoming an Italian fighter pilot and is so dedicated to reaching his goal, he had with him a remote controlled airplane, a flight simulator game, and a flight magazine. I learned all about F-16s, F-22s, and the differences between the Egyptian and Italian militaries. Once we arrived in Cairo, I snapped a photo of my new friend and let him know that I hoped to see him as General of the Italian military someday.

Stepping into Egypt Martha and I learned quickly of the "intense" nature of the Egyptians as we spent 30 minutes entertaining offers from taxi drivers to get us to our hotel. It felt like an auction in reverse order as we literally went around a cirlce as each bidder reduced his/her price by 5-10 pounds. We took the last woman standing and went on our way. The architecture of Egypt is just as I had imagined, mosque and castle-esque complete with a backdrop of desert and palm trees. Mysterious and exotic.

After we freshened ourselves up and settled in to our surprisingly charming hotel, we made our way down the road to find some dinner. I stopped to ask questions about the bread being sold on a table along the way and made a new friend in Ayman Basha. Ayman insisted Martha and I meet his mother and join him for "breakfast" at 8pm and remain under his hospitality for the evening. We were starving, but out of respect for the customs of Ramadan we sat Indian style with Mama Noura on a mat and had a cold Pepsi until the spread was laid before us. And what a spread it was! Traditional bread, vegetable stew, beans,stuffed grape leaves,fresh coconut juice, hot tea, good conversation and plenty of laughs making for a great first meal. Afterwards dessert was waiting for us at a beautifully ornate perfume shop just around the corner. While sipping tea, we smelled fresh jasmine, lotus from the Nile, and the traditional "Arabian Nights" scents from a 3rd generation family perfume and oils operation.

So that brings us to now...stomach full and very satisfied, smelling like a flower, heart happy, and typing in an internet cafe. First day was a success leaving me with a feeling that this is just the beginning of something beautiful!

Ready, set, GO!

The time has arrived and TODAY is the day when I fly to AFRICA! I will be accompanied by a big black backpack with the bare neccessities, plus a few comforting extras, and alot of nervous jitters! The month of preparation is over and I still feel like a kindergartner on her first day of school. I mean, can one really prepare for over 90 days in 13 mostly third world countries? I think not. Even this week I was thrown a curve ball when I learned that on the first leg of my journey, I will be turning in my black backpack for the proverbial little black dress. An editor from a travel magazine reached out to me via email requesting my journalistic services for a feature on Egypt for their October issue. She had seen a writing sample and my trip info on a travel blog that I had posted to some weeks back. As fate would have it, she needed me to contribute articles on scaling Mt. Sinai on a camel to watch the sunrise, Egyptian spas, and Egyptian golf courses. It's fitting that the magazine's title is "Dreamscapes" because I needed to pinch myself a few times when I first received the proposal. But alas, duty calls, and on behalf of all future readers and Egyptian travelers of Dreamscapes, I answer that call and go before to be pampered!